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Oh! Calcutta….Not your Mother Theresa’s Kolkata

2/15/2023

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​I am now in India, mostly on a buying trip—looking for cashmere. Usually when I come to India, and this is my first time in a few years, I try to visit someplace I have never been.  This time, it is Kolkata, once known as Calcutta.
 
Like most of India, pandemonium and chaos seem to be an undercurrent to life here. Traffic is always terrible, most drivers don’t seem to follow rules and horns blare constantly, generally for no discernible reason. All that said, Kolkata is a very interesting place.
 
This if the view from my hotel room. The hotel is located in New Town…a developing area about 40 minutes by car from the city center. Well-planned and attractive, it is far from the chaos of the heart of the city.
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The Victoria Memorial is a magnificent structure and certainly the first place anyone visiting here should see.  Located in beautiful gardens, it was built in the 1920’s to commemorate the reign of Queen Victoria.  The legacy of the UK here is not all that great, but certainly this structure is one of the better relics of the British era. 
The next place one needs to visit is the revered Howrah Bridge. Why is it famous?  I asked Google:
It carries a daily traffic of approximately 100,000 vehicles and possibly more than 150,000 pedestrians, easily making it the busiest cantilever bridge in the world. The third-longest cantilever bridge at the time of its construction, the Howrah Bridge is currently the sixth-longest bridge of its type in the world.
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The street scene near the bridge gives you a glimpse into ordinary life here.
I visited a beautiful temple outside the city called Dakshineswar which was simply magnificent. Why is it famous?  I asked Google: 
 
The temple is known for its association with Ramakrishna and Ma Sarada Devi, mystics of 19th century Bengal. The Temple complex is on the banks of the river Hooghly, West Bengal. The main temple was inspired by Navaratna style Radhakanta temple, built by Ramnath Mondal of Tollygunge.
​Before going into the temple itself (cameras are not allowed), many people wash in the Hooghly river that runs nearby.
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Many parishioners buy offerings that they carry with them into the temple.  Rather than leaving them, they have them blessed and then carry them home.
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​Finally, let me share some random photos from around the city. 
Below  is a memorial built with funds donated by residents of the city to honor the Britisher James Prinsep. Apparently he was quite revered in the city.
 
Who was James Prinsep?  I asked Google:
James Prinsep FRS was an English scholar, orientalist and antiquary. He was the founding editor of the Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal and is best remembered for deciphering the Kharosthi and Brahmi scripts of ancient India.
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Flowers are omnipresent in Indian life.  Every morning, a new arrangement appeared in the lobby of my hotel.  The best one:


I am now in Delhi with morning sun providing some warmth to a very chilly morning.  Sitting on a rooftop deck of a small guest house enjoying coffee and looking forward to seeing beautiful cashmere scarves….
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What I learned at the Elephant Nature Reserve

2/27/2022

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These wonderful people have saved the lives and rehabilitated hundreds of elephants and other animals Today, ENP is home to 208 elephants, hundreds of dogs, cats, water buffalo, horses, wild boars, ponies, etc., on a 250 acre privately owned preserve.
Elephants are amazing:
  1. They share many human characteristics. Their life spans are similar. I saw some that were in their 80s and 90s.
  2. Their body temps are similar. They are susceptible to the same diseases.
  3. They form families of from 2 to 50 elephants, and they stay together and recognize one another for their entire lives. In their teen years, male elephants are pushed out by their mothers to be on their own. Females, however, stay together.
  4. They express emotions.
  5. They have varying personalities. They form friendships. Some are complete loaners.
  6. They adopt babies when necessary.
  7. 7. Many elephants at the park have been injured, permanently, by human abuse. Many are blind because of being forced to perform in front of hot lights. Some have broken backs because they were forced to carry unwieldly loads, including humans. Some have been injured by land mines.
  8. Babies were typically tortured int submission and some have lifelong mental issues because of it.
  9. They eat 15 hours a day, from 2 to 10% of their weight. They drink 100 litres of water a day.
  10. 10. At this preserve they are rehabilitated, cared for, medically treated and are free to roam and live the rest of their lives in safety and love.
  11. Each elephant has its own mahout and this man and his elephant are attached for their entire lives.
  12. At ENP, elephants are never ridden, never used, never abused in any way.
  13. ENP is dedicated to educating elephant owners around Thailand and they have had some success in eradicating the old ways of elephant abuse.
  14. ENP is a completely voluntary organization supported by people from around the world.
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Covid-19

10/7/2021

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As the world suffered through the Covid-19 crisis, so many of my friends in Burma, Thailand and India suffered even more than we did here in the United States.  I was moved by the plight of old friends, particularly in India which was so hard hit.  
A tuk-tuk driver in Jodhpur whom I had known for ten years and who had been my friend and guide had worked hard for so many years to make a better life for his family and he was succeeding well….until he lost everything. When he was on the verge of losing his home, I asked my friends and customers to assist me in providing aid.  They stepped up and I was able to collect over $1200.  Together, we were able to save his home.  Furthermore, with leftover funds, I was able to help procure food for three close friends who were helping to feed the poor and sick in Mumbai, Nagpur and Delhi.

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How to Tie a Thai Scarf

9/21/2020

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​Did you know there are at least 25 different ways to tie a scarf?  In this surprisingly entertaining Youtube video, a young Thai woman deftly demonstrates how to wear a silk scarf in all 25 ways!
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    About me

    An inveterate traveler, I have spent a great deal of time searching for new arts and artisans, mostly in Asia.  I am drawn to Asia thanks to my 25-year tenure living in Japan. During that period I traveled extensively and often in Southeast Asia.  Upon returning to the US, I formed Arts of Asia in order to share the qualities I admire in Asia with my friends and customers in the US.  To support this mission, I continue to spend 4 months a year abroad.  The search is never ending!

    Here are a few glimpses of some of the places I have visited in recent trips in my quest to find new artisans and crafts.

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